A long, lazy summer afternoon and I am making a cake. A citrus-scented summer cake, with layers of barely there sponge holding a deep and fluffy lemon mousse. I take my time, as I tend to do with cakes, and during the time the filling takes to set, I will make a soup of cucumber and green peas to eat chilled, the very essence of a summer’s afternoon.
There will be a few other plates on the table – crisp toasts with a cargo of roasted aubergine and basil, a jug of elderflower cordial, and wild strawberries from the garden – just a handful for each of us. Crimson fruits the size of Jelly Tots, tumbling on to a plate of strawberry leaves. The very best of summer days.
Lemon sherbet mousse cake
A recipe of two halves. First a light sponge to make, then a citrus mousse, but the recipe is not as complicated as it might appear. You will need a springform cake tin to make life easy and a sharp knife to cut the cooked sponge in half. Make certain the cake has cooled thoroughly before slicing. You will need the outer ring of the tin to keep the filling in place until it sets. The cake is finished with a dusting of citrus-flavoured sugar. Serves 8-10
For the cake:
butter 35g
eggs 3, large
caster sugar 75g
plain flour 75g
For the filling:
eggs 4, medium
caster sugar 150g
lemons 2, large
gelatine 5 sheets (9g)
double cream 250ml
full-fat cream cheese 250g
For the top:
caster sugar 150g
lemon finely grated zest of 1, large
You will also need a 20cm spring-clip sponge tin. To make the cake, set the oven at 170C/gas mark 3. Line the base only of the sponge tin.
Put the butter in a small saucepan and melt over a low heat, then remove from the heat and allow to cool. It must not solidify. Break the eggs into the bowl of a food mixer, add the caster sugar and whisk until thick and creamy. I do this at high speed. Sift in the flour, then mix gently with a large metal spoon into the eggs and sugar. Pour in the cooled butter and fold in lightly, then scrape into the cake tin with a rubber spatula.
Bake the cake for 20 minutes until soft and springy to the touch. Remove from the heat and leave to settle for 10 minutes. Place a piece of greaseproof paper over a cooling rack, turn out the sponge into the rack and remove the base. Carefully peel off the paper.
To make the cake filling, separate the eggs and put the whites in a large mixing bowl. Beat the yolks and sugar together using an electric mixer with a whisk attachment until thick and pale. Grate the lemons finely, then add the zest to the yolk mix.
Juice the lemons – you will need 125ml. Soak the gelatine in a bowl of cool water. Warm the lemon juice in a small saucepan and remove from the heat. Lift the softened gelatine from the water (it should be a soft, quivery mass, only just solid enough to pick up) and drop it into the warm juice. Stir until it is dissolved.
Add the cream cheese to the yolk and sugar mixture, beating until completely smooth, then add the lemon juice and gelatine. Whip the cream until it’s thick enough to sit in soft waves (not quite thick enough to stand in stiff peaks), then fold gently into the mixture. Beat the egg whites until stiff, then fold them in carefully and thoroughly.
Using a long, serrated knife, slice the cake in half horizontally. It will be fragile, so take care. (If it breaks a little, no matter, we will be covering it in sugar.) Remove the base from the cake tin and place the empty ring on a serving plate and close the spring clip. Spoon the filling on top of the sponge, smooth the surface a little, then carefully place the top half of the sponge on top. Press very gently, then cover the tin with clingfilm or a plate and leave in the fridge for 3 or 4 hours to set.
Make the sugar crust by putting the lemon zest and sugar in a food processor for a few seconds.
To serve, sprinkle the surface with the lemon sugar. Undo the spring clip and carefully lift the ring from the cake.
Cucumber and pea soup
A quick summer soup, bright and fresh tasting. It is best eaten, like vichyssoise and watercress soup, thoroughly chilled, so have some ice cubes on hand. If you fancy a little decoration, nasturtium or pea flowers would add a little pepperiness. As would sweet rocket and a tangle of peashoots. Serves 4
peas 400g, fresh or frozen podded weight
cucumber 1, large (450g)
natural yoghurt 200g
mint leaves 12
limes 1
Bring a deep pan of water to the boil, add the peas and cook them for 3 or 4 minutes until tender. You can expect fresh peas to take a couple of minutes longer than frozen. Drain the peas except for 2 tbsp of their cooking water.
Put the peas in a blender or food processor with the water. Peel the cucumber and cut into small pieces, then add to the blender. Process briefly, then introduce the yoghurt, mint leaves and a little salt and continue processing to a thick cream. Check the seasoning, adding lime juice to taste (half a lime should be enough).
Transfer the soup to a bowl, cover and refrigerate for a good 2 hours. Ladle into bowls and add a few pea shoots or, if you wish, edible flowers.
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